How To Catch Waves
How Does A Surfer Catch A Wave
HOW TO CATCH A WAVE SUMMARIZED
Note that the opening paragraph related to how to catch a wave is a summarized version of this article. Pleas read the full article to fully understand the best approach to catch a wave. Surfers catch waves using previous experience to predict where a wave is going to break according to the way a wave looks. The surfer then incrementally adjusts their position as the wave approaches them and at the final moment, the surfer will commit to catching the wave, while keeping an eye on it, so they are aware of any last minute changes. Once a surfer has positioned themselves in the right spot to catch a wave, they will then commit to catching it by paddling in a sprinting manner. It’s important to note that in this moment, the surfer does not want to create any resistance with their body in the water. Poor paddle technique, feet apart, the nose of the surfboard diving under the water and static positioning are all common mistakes that prevent beginner and intermediate surfers from being able to catch a wave
Step 1: Identify Consistency
THE ART TO CATCHING AND READING WAVES
Contrary to popular belief, the ocean is not chaotic and learning how to catch a wave is relatively easy once you understand how they work. There is a general pattern to waves in the ocean. This pattern will vary from surf spot to surf spot and will vary from surf session to surf session. This pattern may even vary within a surf session, but changing pattern over such a short period is a little less common. What I am trying to say is, when you go to the surf spot, take 5 minutes to identify where the waves are breaking, how many waves are breaking in each set and notice the different areas that they are breaking. There will typically be some sort of consistency there. This is the first step to help you catch more waves.
How To Catch The Perfect Wave
There is no such thing as the perfect wave, so get rid of that notion all together. You are going to be in the wrong spot nine times out of ten when a wave comes through the line up. So, the best way to catch the perfect wave is to be active in the line up, constantly adjusting your position as you are identifying a wave to catch. Then, once you have positioned yourself to catch the wave, most of the work is already done. The next thing you need to do, to catch the perfect wave, is paddle for the wave while looking behind you. This is the single most common mistake people make when trying to catch the perfect wave. They are too fixated on what is happening in front of them. Look behind you when trying to catch the perfect wave.
Step 2: Set Your Marker
THE NEXT STEP TO CATCH A WAVE PROPERLY
The most important reason to watch waves before you paddle out into the line up, is to identify some sort of object or general area that you will line yourself up with when waiting for, and catching waves. This marker will not only help you identify where to be when a wave comes through but it will also help you stay in the same place when there is a break between waves.
Waves will mostly break in the same place, it’s up to you to maintain your position in the line up by using your markers. It’s not the waves fault you aren’t able to catch them. It’s up to you to catch waves, not up to the waves to catch you.
How Can I Catch More Waves?
The biggest mistake most beginner and intermediate surfers make is thinking that waves are moving around rather than realizing that in fact, it is them who is being moved out of position. This is largely tied to ego and misunderstanding. The best tip to catch more waves is to realize that waves are a displacement of water, there are also rip currents, tides and wind that will move you out of position. So, the number one tip for catching more waves is to pick a marker and stay in the same place you caught your last wave. You will be pretty bad at lining yourself up to catch waves in the beginning, but the longer you surf a specific surf spot, the better you will be able to position yourself!
Step 3: Find The Right Position
Now that you have identified a marker on the beach, you will need to hold onto that broad overview and hold onto that perspective as you transition from standing on the beach, to sitting in the line up. This part is all about your spatial perception, the ability to identify where you are in the universe at any given time. The best way to practice this it to close your eyes, where you are now and try to identify your location by perceptually zooming out like a google maps feature and imagine where you are at any given time.
The better you are at doing this, the better you will be at understanding where you are in the line up at any given time. Please give yourself time to get good at this. This is a very powerful visualization technique that will help you catch every wave you want.
When Should I Start Paddling For A Wave?
Now that you have made your way out into the line up. Your next thought will be, when should I start paddling for a wave. The short answer is to try and position yourself as close to where you think the wave will break, and only paddle for the wave at the last moment. Unfortunately there is no tangible answer to this question because every scenario is completely different. The long answer to that question is not as simple as you think. Firstly, a common mistake a lot of beginner and intermediate surfers make, is thinking that you need to paddle over a large distance, or use many paddle strokes to catch a wave. Catching waves is much more about adjusting your position while the wave is approaching you, rather than starting to paddle early for the wave. In other words, your goal is to try and predict where the wave is going to break, before it breaks. This is a skill you will improve over time.
Step 4: Identify A Wave To Catch
Not every wave that comes through is going to be a good wave to catch. Some of them might close out, in other occasions you might be too deep. You need to catch every wave you can in the beginning to build your memory bank. You want to pay attention to shade change when identifying when a wave is about to break and pay attention to the top line of the wave to identify which direction the wave is going to break in as well as how quickly the wave is going to break in that direction.
Where Do I Sit to Catch a Wave?
You should sit around 2 meters, or roughly 6 feet further out from where you think the wave is going to break. This gives you enough space to get up to speed when the wave comes through. However, I want to elaborate on this because the honest truth is that every wave is different, so there is no fixed position that you need to sit in, to catch a wave. You are making predictions about where you think the wave is going to break, so the real answer should be, you should sit a little further out to sea compared to where you think the wave is going to break. As previously mentioned, the more you practice this ability to judge waves, the better you will get at it. The most important thing to remember is that you will have to constantly make minor adjustments to get yourself into the right position as a wave is coming through. This is because your initial judgement will be slightly off, as well as, the wave will constantly change shape as it rolls over the ocean floor and is being affected by multiple variables. Including, wind, tide, current, wave height, wave period and wave direction.
Step 5: You Should Face The Wave When Surfing
A common question in surfing is, do you face the wave when surfing? The answer is yes. You should always face the wave when surfing, this includes when catching a wave. The biggest mistake surfers who are learning to catch waves make is looking ahead, at the beach, when catching a wave. You must look at the wave when you paddle into a wave, otherwise how will you know what the wave is doing behind you.
Think of catching waves like catching a ball. Try catching a ball without looking at it, you wont be able to catch it. It’s exactly the same principle in surfing, always face the wave when surfing and catching waves.
How Does A Surfer Catch A Wave
Surfers catch waves using previous experience to predict where a wave is going to break according to the way a wave looks. The surfer then incrementally adjusts their position as the wave approaches them and at the final moment, the surfer will commit to catching the wave while keeping an eye on it, so they are aware of any last minute changes. Once a surfer has positioned themselves in the right spot to catch a wave, they will then commit to catching it by paddling in a sprinting manner. It’s important to note that in this moment, the surfer does not want to create any resistance with their body in the water in this moment. Poor paddle technique, feet apart and the nose of the surfboard diving under the water are all common mistakes that prevent beginner and intermediate surfers from being able to catch a wave.
