The physics of paddling a surfboard
Ever wondered how some surfers effortlessly glide into waves while others look like they’re thrashing at imaginary ants in their wetsuit?
Paddling, while a fundamental technique in surfing, is often overlooked and underestimated. The physics of paddling? Even more so.
This is surprising given how interesting the topic of paddling technique physics is and how greatly it can affect your wave-catching performance.
With that in mind, here’s a deep dive into the mechanics behind paddling a surfboard.
Table of Contents
What Amenities and Services Are Important to Me?
Paddle technique is not just about looking good on the water. It actually plays a crucial role in helping you catch more waves, conserve energy and maintain balance while surfing.
Catching waves comes down to things like positioning and board size, but without proper paddling technique, you’ll struggle to get into the wave early.
The more waves you miss, the more frustrated you’ll become and the less opportunity you’ll have to practice your on-wave surfing skills.
How is paddling a surfboard different from swimming?
Paddling a board and swimming laps in a pool are surprisingly different activities, despite the fact that they both involve moving through water.
The main difference is buoyancy (or lack thereof) when swimming. Having a surfboard underneath you changes everything when it comes to paddle technique.
A surfboard provides buoyancy, which allows for more efficient and powerful paddling. Propelling your body forward without a buoyant surfboard under you is much harder and requires more effort.
Does the type of surfboard matter when it comes to paddle power?
Yes! If there’s one thing that’s abundantly clear in the world of surfing, it’s that different surfboard shapes and sizes have a huge impact on performance.
The more liters or volume a board has, the more buoyancy it provides and the easier it is to paddle. On the other hand, a smaller board with less volume will require more effort to catch waves, essentially crippling your paddle technique.
Additionally, the shape of the surfboard can also affect paddling power. A wider and thicker board will have more surface area, providing extra buoyancy and making it easier to paddle.
A narrower and thinner board, while more maneuverable on the wave face, will have less surface area and therefore require more effort to paddle.
It’s important to choose a surfboard with the right volume and shape for your body type and level of surfing.
Everyone has their own paddling technique, but the fundamentals of the paddling movement more or less remain the same.
We run a highly detailed and technical analysis of how exactly you should move your arms in the water during our Surf Paddling Technique course.
In this course you’ll learn the correct body positioning, arm movements and timing needed to maximize your paddle technique, power and efficiency.
The physics involved when paddling a surfboard
All well and good, but when we get down to the nitty gritty, what are the basic physics principles at play when paddling a surfboard? Let’s riff.
Buoyancy
Buoyancy is the upward force that allows objects to float in a fluid, like water.
This is an essential principle when it comes to surfing and paddling because without it, we wouldn’t be able to stay on our boards or paddle efficiently.
The bigger the surfboard, the more buoyancy it provides, making it *easier to paddle and catch waves. You can feel how buoyant your board is simply by lying on it in the water and noticing how high or low you float.
Most beginner surfers will start with a board that has high buoyancy to help them catch waves more easily.
→ Discover the best beginner surfboards
You’ll have to turtle roll these boards rather than duck dive, mind you, but you’ll benefit greatly from increased paddle speed, easier wave catching and a better overall surfing experience.
*Bigger boards aren’t necessarily better for all surfers, as it also depends on your body weight and surfing ability.
Drag/resistance
Drag and resistance have a massive say in surfing. You literally can’t pop up on a board without encountering it.
Drag is essentially the force that resists motion when an object moves through a fluid, like water. It’s important to minimize drag and resistance when paddling because it allows you to move through the water more efficiently, conserving your energy for when you’re actually riding a wave.
There are a few ways to decrease drag and resistance during paddling:
- Keep a horizontal body position that’s streamlined and close to your surfboard
- Utilize proper paddling techniques (more on that in our Surf Paddling Technique course)
- Ensure your surfboard is the right size and shape for you
Weight distribution
One of the lesser known surfing technique hacks is weight distribution. Too often we see beginners too far or too forward on their surfboard.
Heck… we see experienced surfers making the same mistakes too!
But why is weight distribution so important? Simply put, it helps ensure you’re centered over your surfboard and not leaning too far forward or too far back – both of which slow you down and make it harder to catch waves.
Moreover, weight distribution also helps with balance and control while paddling, allowing for more efficient paddling movements in the water.
To ensure your weight distribution is optimal, picture an imaginary point between your chest and stomach (someone around your sternum) and make sure it’s directly above the center of your surfboard.
Fluid dynamics
Fluid dynamics refers to the study of how fluids (like water) flow and move.
In surfing, fluid dynamics can be seen in our paddle stroke, paddling speed, vertical body position when on a wave and how the surfboard and surfer move together.
Of course, you don’t need a PhD in fluid dynamics to improve your paddle stroke or catch more waves, but there’s no denying that it plays a huge part in your overall performance.
Inertia
Fluid dynamics refers to the study of how fluids (like water) flow and move.
In surfing, fluid dynamics can be seen in our paddle stroke, paddling speed, vertical body position when on a wave and how the surfboard and surfer move together.
Of course, you don’t need a PhD in fluid dynamics to improve your paddle stroke or catch more waves, but there’s no denying that it plays a huge part in your overall performance.
Stability
Not just an online surf publication, inertia is also a key concept in physics.
In surfing, inertia can be seen when we’re paddling and suddenly stop or slow down (like when catching a wave).
An object in motion stays in motion, so it’s important to maintain a consistent paddling rhythm to keep your speed up and conserve energy.
This isn’t achieved by thrashing your arms and legs (like our ant-infested-surfer from earlier), but by using proper paddling techniques and momentum. Here are a few tips to maintain inertia:
- Keep your back straight and chest of the deck of the board to streamline your body and prevent unnecessary drag
- Focus on intentional, powerful strokes instead of shallow, weak ones
- Keep your fingertips pointing down and your fingers slightly apart with hand slightly cupped
- Ensure you’re positioned correctly for catching waves with plenty of time to pop-up
Final Thoughts
Efficient paddling doesn’t require you to know the ins and outs of physics, but it doesn’t hurt to have a basic understanding of the principles at play.
You can start paddling like a pro with enough practice on paddle strokes, positioning and weight distribution.
Remember, it’s not just about brute strength and power when paddling.
It’s about using proper technique, fluid dynamics and smart energy conservation to catch more waves and have a better surfing overall experience.
